Our (5th) Irish Adventure
A fifth time is a charm—or should I say, a lucky charm—when it comes to tapping into our Irish hearts.
My husband and I decided to cross the pond once again this summer and return to the Emerald Isle. But this time, we had a little bit of a different plan. Rather than simply choosing destinations, we focussed on the places we stayed as the adventure.
Our focus? Castle hotels, abbeys or unique stays that would allow us to experience a little more of Ireland’s history along with some luxury.
Many people keep asking why go back a 5th time? Or even, what keeps pulling us back to Ireland?
The answer is simple…
The people. The beauty. The atmosphere. The history.
There is something about the air of the Emerald Isle that, once breathed in, makes you feel as though you’ve somehow returned home. For us, Ireland brings a sense of belonging – a calm that seems to settle over us and bring our souls back to peace.
This rugged land of ancient history and breathtaking beauty simply keeps tugging at our heartstrings to return. And apparently, five visits later, we’re still not done.
Planning Our Irish Adventure
As with any trip, there was quite a bit of planning involved. Our thought process went something like this:
- Book the flights. Air Canada had a great deal + we were able to book their business class/sleeping pods category.
- Find unique accommodations. Castle hotels, Abbeys, or places with some history or character were what we were longing for.
- Find areas we wished to explore – Castles, ruins, or unique towns.
- Rent a car – through Avis Ireland.
Our Map:
A Glimpse at Our Fabulous Stays and our 10 Day Adventure:
There is no way I could fit everything we saw, did and experienced into one blog without turning this into a small novel! So, I’ve decided to break our Irish adventure into a few different chapters.
I’ll be sharing a more in-depth look at our castle hotels and unique accommodations in a future upcoming blog. So, if you are interested in our actual accomodations, stay tuned.
For now, here’s a little glimpse at where we stayed, what we saw, and our overall experience.
Day 1: Take Off
We flew Air Canada in their Business Class category. This was such a lovely experience. With this option, we had access to their lounge – which included hot food, beverages of all kinds, tables, comfy chairs, washrooms on hand, showers, and a concierge to help with any questions upon checking in.
Upon entering the plane, we were guided to the business class area where we each had our own ‘pod’. Each pod consisted of a TV, charging ports, headphones, sleep mask, ear plugs, socks, a toothbrush, hand cream, lip gloss and mouth wash. Each seat had different comfort levels for pressure and would fold down with the touch of a button to lie flat when you wished to sleep.
A ‘mid-night’ food option was delivered, however I preferred to sleep so I opted out of that, but I did experience their breakfast option before our arrival.
We certainly got spoiled selecting this option, but it was such a delight with being able to sleep much more comfortably lying down rather than seated.
Arrival Day (Day 2) and Drive to Dalkey:
Our first stop was Dalkey, roughly 45 minutes from Dublin Airport—a perfect distance after an overnight flight. Even with our fabulous sleeping pods, we were tired when we arrived, so I highly recommend keeping that first drive relatively short.
We stayed at the 18th century Fitzpatrick Castle Hotel and it was a wonderful way to begin our Irish adventure. Picture perfect and within walking distance to the quaint town of Dalkey. Our first Castle Hotel experience set the tone for many ‘in complete awe’ moments.
We decided to keep ourselves awake by taking the 15-minute walk into town. Dalkey was exactly what we had hoped for—quaint shops, pubs, cafés, beautiful historic castles everywhere we looked, as well as a very scenic coastline.
We wandered toward the Irish Sea and came across a gorgeous old convent before stopping for lunch at Finnegan’s, which is apparently one of Bono’s (from the band U2) favourite restaurants. We enjoyed a delicious vegetable and seafood chowder before heading back to the castle hotel.
After a quick rest and a swim for my husband in their expansive pool, we had dinner at the hotel’s Dungeon Bar. Delicious!
Although we were feeling the effects of exhaustion, we weren’t quite ready for bed yet! Since we were determined to stay awake until a reasonable Irish bedtime (which is best to do on your first day to acclimatize to their time zone), we decided to see if we could find the homes of two famous Irish musicians—Bono of U2 and Enya.
And after a lengthy walk and the trusty help of Google Maps, we actually found them!
Enya’s home is a magnificent castle sitting high up on the hill, while at Bono’s – sitting very scenically overlooking the sea – we enjoyed a great view of the gate, however we met his security guard and even saw someone leaving in a black car. In my version of the story, it was him leaving!
By that point, we’d walked quite a distance and were more than ready for bed. My trusty apple watch logged in over 19000 steps on our first day so we slept like a dream that first amazing night.
The next morning, we woke rested, hungry for our first Irish breakfast and gathered our things before beginning our next adventure of heading toward Kilkenny.
Day 3: Kilkenny – A Return to a Favourite Town
On route to Kilkenny, we happened to find a glorious old abbey ruin. Simply magnificent.
One of the things we love about travelling through Ireland is coming across these ancient structures unexpectedly. You can pull over, wander among the ruins and imagine the history that took place there centuries ago. Google maps is also a great way to plan prior to your holiday – you can search ‘castle ruins’ and many will pop up so you can save for your Irish journey.
After taking in this ancient wonder, we stopped in Carlow for lunch at a fabulous little place called The Post Office before continuing on to our next unique stay in Kilkenny— The Butler House.
Set on the grounds of Kilkenny Castle, this beautiful 18th-century Dower House was exactly the kind of accommodation we had hoped to find for this trip. Stepping into the gardens alone made me feel as though I’d stepped back in time—or perhaps onto the set of Bridgerton. The beautiful gardens and peaceful surroundings created an instant sense of calm.
Sidenote: Butler House – as well as Fitzpatrick Castle – will be featured in an upcoming blog about the unique and historic places we stayed throughout Ireland.
This was our second visit to Kilkenny, and it was just as enjoyable as our first. We wandered through the castle grounds and explored the little shops, taking in the one-of-a-kind Irish craftsmanship and artistry. From there, we strolled through the streets, popping into shops and bookstores along the way.
That evening, we made our way to Matt the Millers for dinner—and ended up staying for the terrific live Irish music. There is just something about sitting in an Irish pub, listening to talented musicians play while sipping a Kilkenny ale (or a Guinness) and a Bulmers cider. This was one of the highlights of our holiday.
We slept wonderfully at Butler House and enjoyed a delicious Irish breakfast the next morning in the elegant Lady Eleanor Room, overlooking the pristine gardens.
Day 4:
We didn’t have to check out until noon, so we had a little extra time to so more exploring around Kilkenny.
The Dominican Black Abbey is definitely a site not to miss. The stained-glass windows inside are stunning, and the history of this beautiful church makes it well worth a visit.
Leaving Kilkenny on route to our next stay, we decided to see the infamous Rock of Cashel—a place we couldn’t believe we’d never actually explored on any of our previous trips to Ireland.
Rock of Cashel
The Rock of Cashel sits dramatically above the town of Cashel. You can see it towering over the town from a distance, and it is certainly the focal point of the area.
The history surrounding this ancient site is extraordinary. St. Patrick is said to have stood on this very rock, and according to legend, he banished Satan from a cave here. Standing on this ground and taking in the centuries of history surrounding us was an overwhelming experience.
It is a MUST-SEE stop on any Irish vacation if you can make it happen. I am still boggled that it took us until our fifth visit to Ireland to finally explore it!
Kinnitty Castle
Pulling up to Kinnitty Castle reminded me of what it might have been like to arrive by carriage centuries ago. This beautiful, historic castle, still standing proudly and decorated in true castle fashion, provided a fairy-tale stay that will go down as one of the best experiences of our lives.
I’ll share much more about Kinnitty Castle in a future blog featuring all of our castle stays during this holiday, but the short version is simply…
WOW!
From the décor and the staff to the food and accommodations, this 13th century castle hotel was top-notch. Dinner in the Dungeon Bar was splendid. From the starter soup to the fish and chips and chicken, we ate like royalty. An after-dinner cocktail in the drawing room topped off the evening, followed by a stroll through the courtyard to take in more of the castle grounds.
The following morning, we enjoyed a fabulous Irish breakfast in the dining room before taking a lovely walk along the castle’s 2-kilometre trail. Along the way, we even discovered an ancient standing stone, as well as a stone cottage tucked away on the property.
I would highly recommend a stay at Kinnitty Castle for any possible castle hotel stay you may be thinking about. You won’t regret your choice!
Days 5 – 7:
Leaving Kinnitty, we discovered Ireland wasn’t finished surprising us yet as we found a pyramid. That’s right! An ancient pyramid. Kinnitty Pyramid is a 19th Century mausoleum build in 1830 by the Bernard family who owned Kinnitty castle. It was formed as a burial monument for the family all because ancient Egypt was a fascination at that time. This striking monument certainly caught our eye.
On our way to our next stay at Glenlo Abbey, we stumbled upon St Ruadhan’s Abbey and Portumna Castle as well as a random castle ruin in a farmer’s field. Finding these incredible historic places certainly made the drive towards the Galway area enjoyable. These incredible finds are often highlights of our day.
Glenlo Abbey
A short 15 minutes outside Galway, along the shores of Lough Corrib, sits the 18th century Glenlo Abbey. From the moment we arrived, the five-star experience began. The bellman met us in the parking lot to gather our luggage, followed by a personal check-in and tour before showing us to our beautifully appointed room that we would have the pleasure of staying in for our 2-night stay.
Our first impressions were spectacular.
The activites alone that are offered here will provide you with plenty of enjoyment options to fulfill your holiday pleasures. If activities, which include golf, bike riding, falconry, or off-site horseback riding, aren’t quite your style, then you can simply sit back with a glass of wine and listen to their nightly pianist fill the drawing room with music.
Their dining options vary from pub style at Palmers Bar or fine dining at the Micheline star Pullman train car experience. We had the pleasure of experiencing both restaurants and from their soup (yes, vegetable again) at Palmers to their gourmet cuisine at the Pullman – each delivered a 5 star experience.
This is truly just a glimpse of what Glenlo Abbey has to offer, and I’ll be sharing a much more detailed look at this incredible property in a few weeks. This property offers so much that is requires a entire separate blog to give it the glory it deserves.
Of all our stays so far, Glenlo Abbey topped our list. I would highly recommend it to anyone looking for a luxury Irish getaway with outstanding service, beautiful surroundings and exceptional food.
Day 7:
We were sad to leave this special place, but another adventure was waiting for us. We were heading toward Westport—with a breathtaking stop at Clifden Castle along the way.
Our Waze GPS directed us through some gorgeous countryside, and eventually we arrived at a tiny parking area overlooking a vast ocean bay. From there, it was about a 10-minute walk down a country trail and with every step, the views became more spectacular.
Until we saw the castle. Breathtaking!
Clifden Castle must have been quite something in its day. Built in the early 1800s by John D’Arcy, the founder of Clifden, this stunning castle now stands in ruins, its stone walls covered in ivy and surrounded by the rugged beauty of Connemara.
Even in its ruined state, you can wander around the property and imagine what it must have looked like back in its glory days.
Sidenote: Clifden Castle sits on private farmland, and the landowner provides a donation box for those who would like to contribute toward the upkeep of the land. The property is beautifully maintained and welcoming to visitors who want to explore this fascinating piece of history.
As we continued north toward Westport, Waze wanted us to take part of the Wild Atlantic Way. While the scenery along these routes can be spectacular, here’s one thing we learned while driving in Ireland:
Not all roads are created equal!
For example:
- M – Motorway
- N – National Road
- R – Regional Road
- L – Local Road
- And some roads with no letter at all!
As you go down that list, the narrower the roads become.
The Wild Atlantic Way is absolutely beautiful, but some of its roads can be challenging, especially when you’re driving along narrow roads beside steep cliffs. With some advice from the locals, we decided to stick mainly to the N and R roads.
Another great tip: Waze allows you to filter out motorways and toll roads. This gave us much more control over the type of roads we travelled and made our drive much more enjoyable. Motorways can be boring, so try to travel on the N and R roads as much as possible. You’ll have a better chance at discovering those off the beaten path sites as well.
On route to Westport, we drove through the Connemara. The landscape looked like something Bob Ross could have painted—mountains, valleys, stone walls and ocean views were in every corner.
We were in awe for the entire drive.
Eventually, hunger got the better of us, so we stopped in Letterfrack for lunch at Veldon’s Seafarer Bar and Restaurant.
And yes…
Soup again!
Sidenote: I’ll be sharing a whole blog about the Soups (and other Foods) of Ireland, because after eating soup seven of our nine full days, I think it deserves its own story!
After lunch, we hit the road for our final hour to Westport.
Westport
Arriving in Westport felt a little like arriving in a quaint seaside town. In fact, it reminded me a bit of Charlottetown, PEI.
We found our second last accommodation of the trip—The Wyatt Hotel, right in the heart of Westport and somehow, we had the luck of the Irish on our side. We snagged the last parking spot they had in their covered parking lot.
The Wyatt is centrally located right on The Octagon, the heart of Westport. Shops, restaurants and pubs are all just steps away, and you can easily explore much of the town on foot.
A lovely walk toward the water takes you through a beautiful park and past Westport House, eventually leading to more seaside shops and restaurants.
Westport really does have so much to offer.
You may be wondering, “Why didn’t you choose another castle or abbey for this stay?”
After researching Westport for our possible locations, we loved the feel and charm the town had to offer and wanted to actually experience the town rather than simply pass through it. After several days of driving and exploring, we were ready for a little change of pace.
So, we stayed at The Wyatt for two nights and explored Westport on foot.
And surprisingly, this was one of the most relaxing stays of our trip. From the moment we arrived, the friendly team greeted us warmly and offered plenty of ideas and suggestions about what to see and where to go. Our room was situated above the downstairs bar, but apparently those walls were very well insulated! We didn’t hear one musical note—or one bit of Irish craic—from the evening festivities below.
We slept like a dream.
And then there was Westport itself.
We loved wandering through the quaint shops filled with souvenirs, books, chocolate and antiques, and, of course, discovering the famous Irish pubs. We enjoyed a delicious dinner at The West Bar and then decided we needed to find some good old-fashioned Irish music to finish the evening.
Naturally, we had to stop into Matt Molloy’s, one of Westport’s most famous traditional music pubs. Owned by Matt Molloy, the longtime member of The Chieftains, the pub certainly has a reputation for Irish music, but to be honest—it wasn’t really our style. It was packed, the floor was rather sticky and the washrooms left a little to be desired.
So we left to discover two other pubs that were much more our style: Porterhouse and Henehan’s Bar. Both had outstanding live music, and we thoroughly enjoyed our evening there.
Our two-night stay in Westport was delightful. We highly recommend experiencing the town, taking the time to explore it on foot, and staying at The Wyatt.
The west coast, its quaint towns and especially Westport itself gave us another experience we’ll definitely remember.
Day 9:
We were now on our last full day in Ireland and set out on the four-hour journey to Swords, just outside Dublin.
To make our drive more interesting, we again decided to stick mainly to the N and R roads and mapped in a few castle ruins and places of interest we wanted to see along the way.
Our first stop was Roscommon to see its infamous 13th-century castle ruin.
And WOW! What a beauty.
The castle was designed around a large central courtyard, and I loved that you can simply park, walk right up and explore. Ireland has so many ruins that offer this kind of experience, and honestly, this is one of the main reasons we keep coming back. You never quite know what you are going to stumble upon.
To see a visual of the castles and abbeys we discovered – click the photo link below:
Our next plan was to visit Newgrange, the prehistoric passage tomb dating back roughly 4000 BC or older. Unfortunately, we didn’t realize that tickets needed to be purchased online in advance, so we simply took a few snapshots from the fence.
Thankfully, I had my handy Google Maps list of saved places!
Another ancient tomb was on our route to Swords—Four Knocks Tomb—so off we went. Waze brought us to what it said was our “destination,” but all we could see was an open gate with a sign. We headed up the path and suddenly, there it was.
This ancient wonder was sitting quietly in the middle of a farmer’s field.
To enter the tomb, you can obtain a key from the farmer for €20, which is given back when you return the key. As luck would have it, another couple who were researching the history of Four Knocks had already obtained the key. So, along with another couple, we stepped inside.
What we thought would be a five-minute sightseeing stop turned into an hour of exploring, learning and being completely fascinated by the ancient world.
The tomb dates back to around 3500 BC, although the gentleman we met who had been researching its history believed it may be even older. The tomb contains three chambers and according the info sign posted, 65 bodies are buried within them. Each passageway had delicate carvings in varying designs sketched within the stones. The couple researching the tomb thought they may be sound waves which could have quite possibly helped heal those in need back in those ancient times? We are unsure what the true meaning of those carvings detailed, but stepping inside that tomb was certainly an awe stopping moment.
We left Four Knocks feeling incredibly fulfilled and so grateful that a little change of plans had led us to such an amazing discovery.
To see a visual of Newgrange and Four Knocks Tomb – click the photo link below:
Our Last Stay – Rose Cottage in Swords
Our last stay was at Rose Cottage in Swords, where we had stayed twice before.
And once again, Dominika did not disappoint.
She is an outstanding host and somehow manages to make every visit feel like coming home. Swords is only about 10 minutes from Dublin Airport, making it the perfect place for our final night. It’s quiet and peaceful and gives you a break from the hubbub of Dublin.
Don’t get me wrong—we loved Dublin when we explored it on our first visit. But after ten days of driving, exploring and constantly being on the go, a peaceful final night was exactly what we needed.
Rose Cottage is quaint, comfortable and beautifully decorated. The bedding, plush towels and even the cushioned floors adds to the feeling of being completely spoiled and relaxed.
Dominika also keeps a book of dining suggestions and things to see in Swords and the surrounding area, so if you want to continue exploring, she has you covered.
We chose to eat again at The Old School House Restaurant, and once again, it did not disappoint. As luck would have it, we arrived on a night when they were serving their “carving” dinner—a meal very similar to what we might call a Sunday dinner, or better yet, Christmas or Thanksgiving dinner. A pretty fabulous way to end our holiday.
Rose Cottage is a must-stay if you need somewhere close to the airport. Every visit for us has been a 10/10. Dominika provides a lovely continental breakfast with oatmeal, yogurt, pastries, tea, coffee and other beverages. And one of the sweetest touches? She remembered from our last visit two years ago that we preferred dairy-free options and had already placed dairy-free yogurt and oat milk in our fridge.
Now that’s hospitality.
For a complete review of this outstanding little place, click HERE.
Day 10: It Was Time to Go Home
Our Air Canada flight was first thing in the morning, so we headed out around 7:00 a.m. to return our rental car to Avis and make our way to the airport.
We decided to upgrade to Business Class again on the way home and, as luck would have it, got a great deal at the check-in counter… and that also meant lounge access again.
Our flight ended up being delayed a little, but being able to relax in a comfortable lounge with good Wi-Fi, convenient washrooms and an abundance of food and beverages made the wait much more enjoyable.
And then we were back in our individual pods for the flight home. A pretty comfortable way to end ten days of Irish adventure!
Looking Back on Our 5th Irish Adventure
All in all, our fifth Irish holiday was extraordinary.
From castle and abbey stays to stumbling upon ancient ruins, wandering through quaint towns and discovering places we never expected to find, we were filled with Irish love from the moment we landed until the minute we returned home.
Ireland has a way of pulling you back. We were pretty certain this would be our last trip to the Emerald Isle for quite some time. There are so many other countries and areas we want to explore one day, but somehow, I don’t think Ireland is finished with us yet. We know in our hearts that we will return to where our heritage lies. There is something about this land that has a hold on our hearts and souls. With every visit, that bond seems to grow a little stronger.
And perhaps that’s why, even after five visits, we still leave feeling like there is so much more to discover.
Our Favourite Experiences
- Rock of Cashel
- Clifden Castle and its breathtaking coastline
- Staying at Kinnitty Castle
- The service at Glenlo Abbey
- Four Knocks Tomb
- Our evenings listening to live Irish music
What We Learned From Five Visits to Ireland
Don’t over-schedule. Leave room for spontaneous exploring. You never know what you might discover while travelling along those N, R or L roads.
Book a castle stay. You only live once, so why not feel like a princess? Even if your castle happens to have a few ghostly inhabitants!
Mix up the tourist spots. There are definitely must-see sites and towns, but don’t be afraid to explore some less-touristy places too. Swords, Dalkey, Bray and Carlingford are just a few examples.
Until Next Time, Ireland…
